Car Jerks When Engine Braking
A car can also pull, which is similar to a jerk but is more gradual and is typically to one side. Like a jerk, a pull can be caused by a variety of issues, including the alignment, uneven tire pressures, putting a new tire into the rotation with the old tires, a torque steer or a problem with the brakes.
I replaced the PCV valve of my Toyota Vitz 2007 some time back, due to oil level reducing. After I got the car back from the mechanic, it had this weird behavior of making a sudden jerk after five or six seconds when car is stopped in traffic.
Also, it jerked when shifted to drive gear from parking gear. Jerk is not that violent and it does not make the stopped car actually move forward. Its like the car is trying to jump forward.After about a week or so, this got automatically fixed.I repaired the car again from the same mechanic, this time a soldering job of an electrical cable which supplies power to one of the spark plugs. After I got the car back, it showed similar jerking behavior. Now its been three or four days and jerking has got resolved to some extent, but still car does not feel the same as it previously was.(About the soldering job, two wires which supplied power to a spark coil had been damaged at the point the wires connect to the socket at spark coil. Mechanic told me that its hard to find spare sockets so he soldered the wires. But I don't think the cause of jerking is related to this, because the same behavior occurred previously too, when there was nothing wrong with the wires)I asked the mechanic whether he did anything else other than soldering the cables, but he said no.
But, he should have disconnected the battery, because the time in the dashboard clock was incorrect when I got the car back.Few more information:. My car had been idling roughly for some time now.
Engine Braking Bad
Earlier the gas mileage was about 12.5km/l. Skyrim perk points mod ps4. But from few months back, it has droped to about 10km/l. After the repair, when the car is at a stop, it does not properly goforward when I release the break (without stepping on the gaspaddle).What could be the reason for this jerking behavior?
Its a 1999 nb, so my car jerks back and forth when im letting off the gas in 1st to 3rd gear at low rpms (1000-2000)or high rpms (5000 and up) shine some light on this pleaseThere is nothing wrong with your car. Especially if you are using your foot as an on-off switch. Its not bad, but its also not good. You can try and be very slow and smooth especially in the lower gears. I am assuming your 3rd gear jerking is a lot less than first. If its exactly the same, then yea.thats not right. More details would be helpful in that case.
This will happen with almost any manual car at low rmp. It's trying to stall itself.Downshift. Problem solved.Never had it happen to me at higher rpm though.Hardly, if he is above 1200 rpms his car will not stall or start stalling in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. Try it out sometime, if just for shits and giggles. I don't suggest you drive the car at 1200 rpms in 3rd gear though.Hes just experience the jerking from the weight transfer/engine braking at the same time. Try gassing it in first and then taking your foot off the brake, the car will jerk plenty.
No matter the rpm (probably less in higher rpms though, like you said).Engine mounts would be a possibility if he was experiencing missed shifts and jerkiness in all gears. I have the same problem in my 99 NB as well. It rocks back and forth pretty violently when I let off the gas or get on the gas in 1st gear, not as violently in 2nd, and 3rd is tolerable. I don't use my gas pedal as an on/off switch. I ease on and ease off the pedal but it still does it. I used to have a manual 2000 Toyota Celica and it was never this rough.To try to fix this problem in the Miata, I got new engine mounts that I filled up with polyurethane adhesive (to make it stiffer) and the rocking is reduced but still there. Perhaps the differential mounts are no good as well but at this point I'm too lazy to try to change those since it looks pretty difficult to do.
Yah it doesn do that in 3rd gear and when i drive smoothly it doesnt jerk but its a pain in the ass when im going over like 10 speed bumps in to my apartment. Oh and my friends nb2 doesnt seem like it does the same thing. Oh one more thing lol after i drive my car hard and i come to a stop in neutral my rpm drops to like 300 and then goes back up then repeat.idle droop, search for more info. Pretty much need to take apart the throttle body and the ISCV and clean it really well with Throttle body cleaner.If you can't stand the roughness of it, then use 2nd gear. The Miata can practically idle at 2nd gear as long as it has some throttle. Plus, you can actually start the car from 2nd if you are that upset about the 1st gear roughness (its in every manual car I have driven).
Otherwise, learn to rev match. I do know how to drive a manual ive been driving it ever since i started driving lol just never a rear wheel. I think it might be the timing belt is kinda off or the rear diff bushing is going bad. Hmm now how do you clean the ISCV on a miata? Thanks redem for all your input.No.
You would be complaining a lot more if the timing belt was off.The diff. Bushing would cause a lot of shifter movement, infact it would be difficult to get the car in gear on many occasions, you would get loud clunking sounds on every bump you hit, and few other things. Its like Jaredef said, you are experiencing driveline lash which is exacerbated by a lightweight car and low gearing.I am not saying you don't know how to drive a manual, but you could use some work on smooth manual operation (we all could, I miss many shifts and jerk the car around. Thats why there is synchros on manuals). How long you have been driving is irrelevant, if you learned wrong, its likely you still do those incorrect habits. This technique doesnt really save synchros. By no means is it wrong, but I dont find it necessary for non-aggressive city cruising.LolAs long as the engine doesnt drop below normal idle speed (about 750 rpm) or come under load at low engine speeds (below 2000 rpm) you shouldnt have any problem at all.
I only suggested this technique as it stops the idle droop problem.lol, i can assure you that is not the case.ITs true its called thatBut its better on the suncros with some revmatching. Though when i do that i feel like such a ricer. ITs true its called thatBut its better on the suncros with some revmatching. Though when i do that i feel like such a ricerIts not ricer to save your clutch and synchros. It would be hard to call all race drivers who downshift, ricers (Although I know DCTs are dominating most mainstream racing now).Plus, rice is generally associated with excessive aero on a car which can't possible go fast enough to use it, people who's favorite movie is Fast and Furious (let the flaming begin ), and drivers who put excessive neon lights on the exterior of the car. Cardboard Aero is also rice, and last but not least, FART CANS!
No were do we see downshift is rice, although I guess double clutching has been adopted by ricers ever since F&F1. I had this problem, and it's nearly gone now:1) did the idle reset by jumping pin 10 to ground in the diagnostic connector and matching manual idle to computer idle using the set screw, mie was REALLY low2) engine mountsIt's mostly gone now, I'm waiting to ride in a car that has diff mounts before having them installed since I hear it makes things rough. That would probably get rid of it completely but remember, the force has to go somewhere so the smoother you let off the better it is for the car.
Engine Braking In Automatic Cars
I had this problem, and it's nearly gone now:1) did the idle reset by jumping pin 10 to ground in the diagnostic connector and matching manual idle to computer idle using the set screw, mie was REALLY low2) engine mountsIt's mostly gone now, I'm waiting to ride in a car that has diff mounts before having them installed since I hear it makes things rough. That would probably get rid of it completely but remember, the force has to go somewhere so the smoother you let off the better it is for the car.Maybe we can give each other rides (wow that sounds wrong), since my car has will have, ES diff mounts installed within the next two weeks. If i saw a ricer pull off a prime revmatch before a downshift, he would get a little bit more respect from me.It would be a damn shame if double clutching got a bad rap, every one of my downshifts is double clutched. And i throw a few upshifts in there as well.Driving your car like it doesnt have synchros is a good way to save your synchros. Then when some joker challenges you to a race between lights, you can flat foot like a pro.Haha I am only joking.
I hardly think any ricer knows what double clutching is, and even less know why they should do it, AND EVEN LESS THAN THAT are ricers who.actually. can and do do it.You get props from me for doing it, I think its silly to drive a manual and NOT revmatch on downshifts. You get two choices (three if you count learning), either revmatch and downshift, or coast in gear until engine has reached close to 1500rpms (when fuel cuts back on) then switch to neutral. If you are learning to downshift, then you are welcome to mess up all you like, just remember clutch will wear out and transmission will hate you after a while, but learning isn't cheap really.